Tips for the dismantling of micromotors, taken from Mantua
Forum First thoroughly clean the work surface can be covered with a white cloth to easily identify all the pieces gradually dismantle. This is the suggestion of a guru of the model that will carry over verbatim. Pay attention to the clear direction of installation of all the details, sometimes seem symmetrical, but are not. In particular the shirt, the piston and also the rear plug should be reassembled in the right direction. Before proceeding with the disassembly should be cleaned very well throughout the exterior of the engine.
1 - Remove the exhaust manifold.
2 - Remove the air filter and spark plug.
3 - Remove the carburetor by loosening the appropriate block.
4 - Loosen the screws holding the head and remove it.
5 - Gently remove the underside, taking care to preserve the washers.
6 - Remove the shirt (Coupling), may be embedded, lower the piston to the lowest point (SMEs), insert a plastic band through the exhaust and raising the piston by turning the flywheel, which should move so the shirt. Riabassate the piston and remove the clamp with attention to the mounting direction.
7 - Remove the cap. Bring the piston in TDC (highest point above) before pulling the plug on some different engines could ruin things if you do not. Unscrew the cap screws and remove the cover, paying attention to the mounting direction.
8 - Remove the plunger, slightly pulling out the rod. Attention to the bush.
9 - Remove bell, clutch and flywheel, the flywheel to use a puller.
10 - Remove the crankshaft.
11 - Remove the bearings, if you want to become good engineers should not miss the kit to remove the bearings. In the absence of appropriate tools, proceed as follows: The first step is removing the front that usually comes out cold with the help of a hammer and an aluminum bar of the right diameter, it must be inserted from the inside, so to speak as if infilaste the tree leans the internal cage bearing and martellatine exits. The rear bearing is removed only in hot! Preheat oven to 200 ° when it is put at room temperature for 5 min in the housing right. Remove and beat the guard on a piece of wood with a hole in the cap down. The bearing should fall out by exploiting the different expansions of the materials (aluminum housing expands more than steel bearing and then exits). If you do not leave it inside out for another 2-3 minutes. Last
advice before heating in the oven of the guard house that will wash the oil well or you impuzzerà in any kitchen. Of course you can use other methods to heat the block for example using a Boffa. Once you have removed all the pieces, you can use oil or white as I do, methanol + 2% castor oil for deep cleaning, after which you can wear the monitoring of individual components: The engine wear concerns ( in order of usury) bearing large Biella bearing small coupling cylinder / piston shaft (rod button)
If the engine is well maintained (filters and cleaning of all) its life expectancy and thus performance will last much longer than can imagine. A particularly well maintained and replaced in time can triple the life of an engine. Save money with a connecting rod bearings wear out quickly that flickers and then wear the pair that warms to more wear and tear so even more rod (and thus the shaft) and bearing, scrape off the rear cap and so on ... .
After washing, when the replacement is good to put a drop of castor oil (or expensive After Run) on the bearings, and especially on the piston rod and the bushing on the button of the tree that is the most sensitive point. Regularly cleaned and oiled your engine, filters, checked the spark plug and change worn parts without sparing on details that could nail the engine. Better costs two cents a bearing on a strange machine cazzabubbolo hope to go faster. If the engine nailing machine will not go for nothing and have to spend a tot to buy back or redo the engine.
Forum First thoroughly clean the work surface can be covered with a white cloth to easily identify all the pieces gradually dismantle. This is the suggestion of a guru of the model that will carry over verbatim. Pay attention to the clear direction of installation of all the details, sometimes seem symmetrical, but are not. In particular the shirt, the piston and also the rear plug should be reassembled in the right direction. Before proceeding with the disassembly should be cleaned very well throughout the exterior of the engine.
1 - Remove the exhaust manifold.
2 - Remove the air filter and spark plug.
3 - Remove the carburetor by loosening the appropriate block.
4 - Loosen the screws holding the head and remove it.
5 - Gently remove the underside, taking care to preserve the washers.
6 - Remove the shirt (Coupling), may be embedded, lower the piston to the lowest point (SMEs), insert a plastic band through the exhaust and raising the piston by turning the flywheel, which should move so the shirt. Riabassate the piston and remove the clamp with attention to the mounting direction.
7 - Remove the cap. Bring the piston in TDC (highest point above) before pulling the plug on some different engines could ruin things if you do not. Unscrew the cap screws and remove the cover, paying attention to the mounting direction.
8 - Remove the plunger, slightly pulling out the rod. Attention to the bush.
9 - Remove bell, clutch and flywheel, the flywheel to use a puller.
10 - Remove the crankshaft.
11 - Remove the bearings, if you want to become good engineers should not miss the kit to remove the bearings. In the absence of appropriate tools, proceed as follows: The first step is removing the front that usually comes out cold with the help of a hammer and an aluminum bar of the right diameter, it must be inserted from the inside, so to speak as if infilaste the tree leans the internal cage bearing and martellatine exits. The rear bearing is removed only in hot! Preheat oven to 200 ° when it is put at room temperature for 5 min in the housing right. Remove and beat the guard on a piece of wood with a hole in the cap down. The bearing should fall out by exploiting the different expansions of the materials (aluminum housing expands more than steel bearing and then exits). If you do not leave it inside out for another 2-3 minutes. Last
advice before heating in the oven of the guard house that will wash the oil well or you impuzzerà in any kitchen. Of course you can use other methods to heat the block for example using a Boffa. Once you have removed all the pieces, you can use oil or white as I do, methanol + 2% castor oil for deep cleaning, after which you can wear the monitoring of individual components: The engine wear concerns ( in order of usury) bearing large Biella bearing small coupling cylinder / piston shaft (rod button)
If the engine is well maintained (filters and cleaning of all) its life expectancy and thus performance will last much longer than can imagine. A particularly well maintained and replaced in time can triple the life of an engine. Save money with a connecting rod bearings wear out quickly that flickers and then wear the pair that warms to more wear and tear so even more rod (and thus the shaft) and bearing, scrape off the rear cap and so on ... .
After washing, when the replacement is good to put a drop of castor oil (or expensive After Run) on the bearings, and especially on the piston rod and the bushing on the button of the tree that is the most sensitive point. Regularly cleaned and oiled your engine, filters, checked the spark plug and change worn parts without sparing on details that could nail the engine. Better costs two cents a bearing on a strange machine cazzabubbolo hope to go faster. If the engine nailing machine will not go for nothing and have to spend a tot to buy back or redo the engine.
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