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ANGLE Akermann

DEFINITION: The angle of Akermann is the difference in tilt wheel earlier in the headset.
OPERATION: it causes the inside wheel to the trajectory has an inclination greater than the outside.
USE: The angle is very Akermann interacts with the convergence, and in general for a curve slow and a good idea to keep the wheels slightly convergent and do the opposite in a fast corner.

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Convergence

DEFINITION: Convergence is the inclination of the wheels with respect to their parallelism (as viewed from above).
OPERATION: rear serves mainly to make the car less nervous under acceleration, because when we go out on a curve, the weight is moved on the outer wheel, so if the rear converge tends to bring the toy car to make it straight and avoid excessive heeling and making driving more relaxed.
USE: The front toe is usually left at 0 degrees (parallel wheels), but very slow on a track may be necessary increase, or ensure that the wheels are converging. Later you are using a convergence around 1-2 degrees at most, would increase to increase the level of the rear axle seal, which would involve a car understeer excessively.

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Remove a micro

Tips for the dismantling of micromotors, taken from Mantua
Forum First thoroughly clean the work surface can be covered with a white cloth to easily identify all the pieces gradually dismantle. This is the suggestion of a guru of the model that will carry over verbatim. Pay attention to the clear direction of installation of all the details, sometimes seem symmetrical, but are not. In particular the shirt, the piston and also the rear plug should be reassembled in the right direction. Before proceeding with the disassembly should be cleaned very well throughout the exterior of the engine.
1 - Remove the exhaust manifold.
2 - Remove the air filter and spark plug.
3 - Remove the carburetor by loosening the appropriate block.
4 - Loosen the screws holding the head and remove it.
5 - Gently remove the underside, taking care to preserve the washers.
6 - Remove the shirt (Coupling), may be embedded, lower the piston to the lowest point (SMEs), insert a plastic band through the exhaust and raising the piston by turning the flywheel, which should move so the shirt. Riabassate the piston and remove the clamp with attention to the mounting direction.
7 - Remove the cap. Bring the piston in TDC (highest point above) before pulling the plug on some different engines could ruin things if you do not. Unscrew the cap screws and remove the cover, paying attention to the mounting direction.
8 - Remove the plunger, slightly pulling out the rod. Attention to the bush.
9 - Remove bell, clutch and flywheel, the flywheel to use a puller.
10 - Remove the crankshaft.
11 - Remove the bearings, if you want to become good engineers should not miss the kit to remove the bearings. In the absence of appropriate tools, proceed as follows: The first step is removing the front that usually comes out cold with the help of a hammer and an aluminum bar of the right diameter, it must be inserted from the inside, so to speak as if infilaste the tree leans the internal cage bearing and martellatine exits. The rear bearing is removed only in hot! Preheat oven to 200 ° when it is put at room temperature for 5 min in the housing right. Remove and beat the guard on a piece of wood with a hole in the cap down. The bearing should fall out by exploiting the different expansions of the materials (aluminum housing expands more than steel bearing and then exits). If you do not leave it inside out for another 2-3 minutes. Last
advice before heating in the oven of the guard house that will wash the oil well or you impuzzerà in any kitchen. Of course you can use other methods to heat the block for example using a Boffa. Once you have removed all the pieces, you can use oil or white as I do, methanol + 2% castor oil for deep cleaning, after which you can wear the monitoring of individual components: The engine wear concerns ( in order of usury) bearing large Biella bearing small coupling cylinder / piston shaft (rod button)
If the engine is well maintained (filters and cleaning of all) its life expectancy and thus performance will last much longer than can imagine. A particularly well maintained and replaced in time can triple the life of an engine. Save money with a connecting rod bearings wear out quickly that flickers and then wear the pair that warms to more wear and tear so even more rod (and thus the shaft) and bearing, scrape off the rear cap and so on ... .
After washing, when the replacement is good to put a drop of castor oil (or expensive After Run) on the bearings, and especially on the piston rod and the bushing on the button of the tree that is the most sensitive point. Regularly cleaned and oiled your engine, filters, checked the spark plug and change worn parts without sparing on details that could nail the engine. Better costs two cents a bearing on a strange machine cazzabubbolo hope to go faster. If the engine nailing machine will not go for nothing and have to spend a tot to buy back or redo the engine.

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Caster Camber

DEFINITION: The caster is the angle of the upright. It acts on the steered wheels by making more negative camber on the outer wheel and more positive than the inside wheel to turn.
OPERATION: When we set the model car with a lot of camber will be an improvement in the tightness of the outer wheel path, but we'll get the opposite effect to the inside. Overall, the seal dell'automodello in turn increases because the weight is moved far to the outside, but the caster angle is to improve the situation further. In fact, it makes the rubber steering wheel inside the curve has a positive caster angle so as to prevent bulging thereof.
USE: As for the camber of the faster cornering, the greater must be the caster. But this usually is not adjustable, as all those who buy cars with sloping floor (anti-affondmento) are then forced to opt for a straight floor, but if we are in trouble and we want to change the caster angle, then we can introduce shims under the support of the arms; in front of the cell where we want to increase the caster in the back if we turn decrease.

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DEFINITION: The camber (camber) is the angle at which the surface of the wheel touches the ground. They say negative when the bottom of the wheel is more external than the upper, positive otherwise.
OPERATION: where the model car cornering the tires because of friction with the ground tend to belly flop, or to move across the surface of the rim, and in doing so decreases their contact surface with the consequent loss of adhesion. The camber just serves to balance the bulging of the rubber; in this way because when the model car cornering the tire fits completely to the ground.
USE: The higher speed cornering, the greater the friction with the ground and therefore the rubber tends to be more bulging. The camber angle must be adjusted depending on the speed of the bend, in the fast corners you need a camber angle of very close up to 2-3 degrees while for the slow decrease is better to increase the adhesion of the axis.

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ENGINE: SIGNS OF DANGER

You can easily avoid shutdowns or even seizures, if you learn to quickly recognize these few signals that will indicate if the carburetion too thin to avoid overheating the motor.
- A cold start the engine is fine, but goes out once it warms up.
- The motor is fine to a minimum and at half throttle, but is lacking or even turn off when we open the carburetor to maximum.
- your engine burn a regular candle, or the filament itself is distorted or too dark.
- The engine overheats even if you have already taken steps to eliminate any possible entry of air from the tank, the pipe or the mixture from the carburetor.
- The engine overheats and turns off even though there appears a good compression when tested in cold by turning the flywheel by hand.
- If we put a few drops of water (to avoid the spitting) head cooling immediately evaporate and disappear within 2 or 3 seconds.
- When the engine stops, you can not restart until it has completely cooled.
If you're experiencing any of these problems, it means adjusting your carburetor is too lean and you are putting at risk the engine.
remedies
- Begin to start with the carburetor adjusted according to the advice found in the instruction manual of the manufacturer (see also the post on the carburetor).
- Accingetevi a further and more refined setting only after 3 or 4 minutes of use, and when the engine reaches its operating temperature (about 90 ° -110 ° C). Do not do it before, you would have to review your carburetor when the engine has warmed up.
- When you set the needle up, do it with only small shifts (1 / 4 0 1 / 8 turn at a time), otherwise you will always have problems.
- If you think you've achieved a good adjustment, try to check the engine temperature with a thermometer. It is not necessary to reach a specific temperature, but it is imperative that does not exceed 130 ° C. If you do not have the sensor, have recourse to empiricism drop of water that we talked about earlier.
- If you notice, when you turn to most, the drop in engine blows or anticipates them, grease immediately carburetor!
- After eating at least one fuel tank, examined the filament of the candle if it is shiny or light gray, had made a good adjustment. If, by contrast, is dark gray or even distorted, then it means that the fuel mixture was too lean. Lubricated.
With regard to engine performance, if you increase the percentage of nitromethane, provided the other parameters: temperature, trim, spark plug, muffler, etc., the number of revolutions increases, approximately, by a percentage derived from the following mathematical relationship:
u = (N + 14) / 30
Where u is called the combustion factor and N is the percentage of nitromethane in the mixture. To in terms of power, it increases but not so conspicuous as the number of laps.
Note: The combustion factor u has been normalized to the percentage of 16% since, in most cases, the engines are tested on the test stand using mixtures with that amount of nitromethane. EXAMPLE

It has a mixture of 10% nitromethane. And it has an engine GX CR-12 G = No pull start that develops 22,500 rpm max, obtained at the test bench with a mixture of 16% nitromethane. Want to know how to get the maximum speed, provided all other parameters, if you use a 5% blend of nitromethane.
Knowing that N = 5, from (1) we have:
u = (N + 14) / 30 = (5 + 14) / 30 = 19/30 = .633.
Therefore, the maximum speed will be equal to: N = No
xu = 22,500 x 0.633 = 14,242.5 rpm.